Seiko Prospex SPB511 Review: The Bad Girl I Swore I Was Done With

There’s something about Seiko that keeps pulling me back in — like a bad girl you know you shouldn’t date again, but here I am, typing this with the Seiko SPB511 on my wrist, even though I swore I wouldn’t do this again.

This is Seiko’s latest entry in the 60th Anniversary 1965 Heritage Diver’s lineup — a limited edition nod to the iconic 62MAS. It’s dressed up in a new wave-textured silvery-white dial, features the long-awaited (and debatably executed) tool-free adjustable clasp, and hits that polished “desk diver” aesthetic better than many of its predecessors.

But let’s not pretend this is some perfect execution. As usual, Seiko shows up late with something that almost hits the mark… but somehow manages to fumble a little, too.

First Impressions: Looks That Kill, Logic That Wanders

I didn’t need another Seiko diver. I’ve already got the SPB453 — a solid black-on-black beast that can handle everything short of orbital re-entry. But when I saw the early April 2025 press drops about this new trio of Seiko divers, all sporting the brand-new on-the-fly adjustable clasp, my gear brain lit up like a magnesium fire.

I ordered it immediately through my guys at Arizona Fine Time (as always, top-tier service and where I get most of my nice Seiko watches), because this dial — this dial — had me. The photos showed a shimmering pearlescent wave pattern that looked like it came from the kind of high-end diver Seiko fans have been begging for.

Paired with slimmer proportions and a freshly sculpted case, I figured this was finally the spiritual successor to the 62MAS I’d wear without grumbling about specs.

When it arrived? Yeah, I was let down. But in that “I knew better” kind of way.

The Clasp: Seiko, We Need to Talk

Let’s address the most hyped part of this release: the new clasp. Seiko has finally given us a toolless, on-the-fly adjustable clasp — something fans have been screaming about for years. On paper, it sounds like they listened. In reality? It’s a swing and a shrug.

Yes, it’s thin, and yes, it adjusts. But it’s long. Like, takes-up-your-entire-under-wrist long. If you’ve got a 7.25″ wrist like me, it wears okay — the watch still sits beautifully — but the clasp just dominates the underside. It’s not uncomfortable, but it looks awkward when opened, and it lacks the tight, seamless engineering you get from Tudor or Rolex.

They borrowed design cues from the MarineMaster clasp, but that one was clunky too, and this update doesn’t fix the visual gap or bulk.

I appreciate the effort. I really do. But if this was supposed to be Seiko’s big flex… it’s more of a cautious stretch.

Case & Wearability: The Goldilocks Zone

Here’s where Seiko does still shine — wearability. The SPB511 is wonderfully balanced on the wrist. The case measures 40mm wide, 13mm thick, with a 46.4mm lug-to-lug. It hugs the wrist just right, giving off a refined presence without looking dainty or bloated.

The finishing is a beautiful mix of brushed and polished surfaces, and the slimmer profile over previous SPBs (like the SPB143) is instantly noticeable. This one wears like a watch that costs more than it should, which… yeah, it does.

The Dial: Pretty, Problematic, and Pulling It Off

The dial is where this watch stands out — for better or worse. Seiko calls it silvery-white, but to me, it leans gray. The wave pattern and applied markers scream luxury diver, not hardcore tool watch. It catches the light in a way that feels intentional, and the curved sapphire with AR coating finishes it off with class.

But legibility? Meh. The silver hands over the textured dial just don’t pop. In low light or fast glances, it’s easy to lose the time. Not a dealbreaker, but enough to make me wonder if I should’ve grabbed a different variant — except there isn’t one.

This is the only limited edition based on the 62MAS for the 60th Anniversary. So unless you want to jump to the SPB509 GMT, you’re here for the looks, not battlefield readiness.

Movement & Specs: Reliable, Not Revolutionary

Inside is the Seiko 6R55 — 72-hour power reserve, 3Hz beat rate, 24 jewels. It’s reliable and solid. Nothing to rave about, nothing to trash. That’s Seiko’s wheelhouse these days — “good enough” inside, “looks great” outside, “costs just a bit more than it should.”

300 meters of water resistance, screw-down crown, curved sapphire crystal, and a solid stainless steel case with the DiaShield coating round out the kit. The bezel? Unidirectional with a gray metallic insert and a nicely lumed pip — subtle and sharp.

Final Thoughts: Great Watch, Still Missed the Moment

So… is the SPB511 a bad watch? Not at all.

It’s actually one of the nicest-wearing, best-finished Seikos I’ve bought in this range. It’s refined, good-looking, and feels more premium than the older SPBs. But it’s also overpriced — and not just in a “watches cost too much” kind of way. I’m talking objectively, spec-for-spec.

Microbrands like Zelos are giving you more for half the money. Christopher Ward’s C60 Trident Pro is a better value at nearly the same price. And if you’re chasing real Seiko legacy, the Marinemaster SLA079 is miles ahead — though you’ll pay double for the privilege.

You buy this watch because you love Seiko, full stop. Not for specs, not for hype, and definitely not for the clasp.

But if you want a beautifully balanced, heritage-rich diver that catches the light and makes you smile — even while you shake your head at Seiko’s choices — then yeah, maybe this one’s for you.

Just don’t say I didn’t warn you.

A Quick Note on Transparency

Just so it’s clear — I paid for this watch with my own money. It wasn’t gifted, loaned, or sent “for review.” I bought the Seiko SPB511 from Arizona Fine Time for its full retail price, and I’ve worn and tested it just like any other piece in my rotation. As always, my reviews are based on what I actually experience — no strings, no PR fluff, and no sugarcoating.